1995 Moreau “Vaillons” Chablis

Stony pineapple, a hint of flower and flint; that’s the perfume. Fine intensity and good acidity, with a somewhat loose-knit structure and plenty of fruitiness. Nice, long finish with an apply sort of tinge. Not the very best Chablis has to offer, but delicious on its own terms, a good deal at $22, and an object lesson to California winemakers about how to make a good, inexpensive, unoaked chardonnay.

SY (8/99)