One commences with whites, although one could argue that seven commence with the whites. The opener was a ’97 Marcel Deiss pinot gris Beblenheim, and an odd duck it is. Never would have guessed it to be a pinot gris nor a Deiss. Somewhat blowsy, more than a hint of residual sugar, slightly oxidative without being oxidized, and a bit of a chemical note manifest as a slight gewurtz-like bitterness in the finish. Not at all unpleasant, just odd and unexpected.