1990 Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge

I make good my pledge by making some pasta and aglio e olio, settling in to watch two televisions simultaneously (Giants and ‘Niners on at the same time- it’s like having a menage a trois with cheerleaders), and popping a ’90 Mas de Daumas Gassac rouge.

“Lafite of the Languedoc.” I hope Guibert gave a raise to the marketing guy who came up with that phrase. It’s stuck tenaciously, despite the wine having less than zero resemblance to the elegant rectitude of Lafite. Frankly, there’s more in common with Beringer.

The ’90 Mas is a smoother, more finished wine that earlier vintages I’ve tried. Lots of Cabernet character (that creme de cassis smell), a nice broad fruitiness, and plenty of tannin up front (and I mean plenty of tannin up front). The finish is of decent length, though it tails off quickly to a generic tart cranberry flavor. But at least the harsh tannins in the finish that the wine had on release have resolved- or at least moved to the front.

It’s clearly an expensively made wine, but… simple. I’m reminded of my So Cal days as a single guy, when I’d go to a party, see an attractive woman dressed beautifully, strike up a conversation, then realize within a minute that she’s dumb.

SY (10/02)