I trudge back to the cellar and emerge with a ’94 Domaine des Amouriers Vacqueyras to slurp while we do the dinner preps. Wow, the first impression is tannin and poop, without much fruit. The second impression is tannin and poop, without much fruit. Several more tastings confirm that we’re on a Moebius strip. And that as much as I’ve been bitching recently about shitty California wine, it’s clear that good French producers can make shitty wine as well.