With the first course laid out (salade chevre chaude, featuring the Last Good California Tomato of 2001), we pop a ’99 Sierra Vista Fume Blanc (El Dorado), which seems to make a nice theme with the Cedarville. Anyway. Since release, the SV has gotten a bit more veggie-grassy and a little less figgy. And that’s exactly what the salad needed. Don’t let the “Fume” fool you, there”s not a hint of oak here. Good wine, food-friendly, kind price.