And while I was poking around, I ran across a bottle of ’96 Mahoney Estates Pinot Noir (Carneros). The closure used gave me a bit of pause and nervousness, but never mind, the wine was fine, a well-balanced (12.5% alcohol! Could this really be Californian?), fruit-forward, and vivid Pinot that manages to finesse its way down our gullets, matching perfectly with a wild mushroom strudel with saffron-bell pepper sauce. And Thunderbirded! Fine California Pinot.