This is Negly’s Big Important Wine, given the full-on oak treatment. It’s a wonder that the fruit shows at all. But it is nicely structured, it’s only $14, so it might be worth putting away for a couple of years to see if it turns into anything interesting. If it turns into a volatile oak bomb, don’t blame me, but at least you’re not out too many ducats. But for today, gimme the Cote.