Take a disk of an under-ripe St-Marcellin cheese and slice it across its equator (i.e., make it into two thinner disks). Slice some black truffles (for god’s sake, don’t use preserved ones!) thinly, then place the slices between the two thin disks. Pop the cheese under the broiler for just a few seconds, turn, and heat the other side. Plate, then lightly drizzle with hazelnut oil. This dish has about eight million calories. Serve it with the best Côte-Rôtie you can muster.