One of my faves from the ’89 vintage. OK, my absolute fave from ’89. There’s some poopiness. OK, there’s a LOT of poopiness. OK, this wine has had an enema. But that doesn’t hold back the smoked ham aromas and dried raspberry flavor, nor the superb elegance and complexity. “Elegance” and “enema” are hard to get into one tasting note, but here it is.