Australia ($24): Not your typical Aussie shiraz. Missing is the ripe jammy fruit and the spicy coconut aromas of America oak. What is in its place is a restrained nose of blueberries, raspberries and a touch of mint. The fruit is there on the palate but is held in check by a tight structure. Although it’s already six years old, methinks that another five years of cellaring will be greatly rewarded.