The last Clapes I actually bought were ’95s. Since then, price rises and spotty availability have sent me into the auction market for older vintages. I was way overdue to start catching back up with what was always a reliable domaine for me. This ’98 was somewhat startling to me, much looser and more forward and obvious than young Clapes of my past. It’s more polished and less rustic. Is this a good thing?