The change in winemaking is quite evident with the ’97, from another hot year. But the ’97s as a group seem more complete, more textured, and the Jasmin is no exception. I have little to add to my note from my Rhône trip, other than to contrast the relatively lower herbiness, the heavier, darker texture, and the (thankfully) consistent non-misuse of oak with the newer vintage. Even though it’s still so very primary, it’s easy to see that this is the best Jasmin in many years, and a fitting way to honor the memory of a great grower who refused to disfigure his grapes once they arrived at his cellar. When this arrives at our shores, sock away a few bottles, as you can be sure I will be doing.