A “biologique” cuvee (analogous to “organic”), this is certainly one of the better ’90s. Showing no overt wood, an attractive stemmy/herby quality I always associate with Côte-Rôtie, medium body and relatively low acidity, the GL is quite elegant and subtle. The licorice and black-fruit flavors spread out in the back of the mouth in a most satisfying way. Probably not brett-free, if that matters to you. Double Curly.