1988 Dervieux-Thaize “La Garde” Côte-Rôtie

I will mince no words- the ’88 Dervieux-Thaize “La Garde”, from a vineyard hard by the Côte Blonde patch that Guigal uses as his primary La Mouline source, is a loser. Albert Dervieux’s wines were always hit and miss; this wine is a low swing at a high pitch. The nose is promising, very gamy and high-toned, but the flavor… sour milk mixed with battery acid. If you think this description is too harsh, let me assure you that I’m being kind. This is about the seventh or eighth bottle in a row that has shown this character. My rating: Curly nose, Joe Besser flavor.

SY (8/01)