Risotto primer Okay folks, risotto is something that everyone should be able to prepare. It's relatively quick to make (30 minutes start to finish), deliciously creamy, rich, and the variations that can be made are legion. It also is extremely versatile in that it can be a first course, main course or a side dish. Heck, you can even make deep-fried rice balls out of it that have got to be the some of the finest junk food known to man. With minor adjustments, it can be eaten by both vegetarians and meatatarians. There are a number of different Italian rices that are normally used in risotto including; Arborio, Carnaroli, Baldo, Vialone Nano and Roma . Each is slightly different in how it tastes and what its texture is in the final dish. They all have the same cooking time though. Regular old white rice can be used but frankly, it makes pretty sucky risotto. The rice that is used most often, and can be found the most readily, is Arborio. A short grained rice from Italy, it normally comes in a 1-2 pound box or bag and runs about $5 a pound. Although it is now grown domestically by the likes of Lundberg, it doesn't seem to develop the same creaminess as the imported stuff does. Cooking risotto is a little more involved than adding rice to boiling water, covering it and turning down heat. It must be stirred almost constantly during the cooking process with liquid added at certain times. Following is the basic recipe and, after that, we'll add the different variations that appear time to time from The Stupids test kitchens. Up Basic risotto - Recipe serves four as a first course. 1 small yellow onion, diced fairly fine 1 cup Arborio rice 2-3 tbsp of good olive oil 1/2 cup white wine 5 cups chicken or vegetable stock 1-2 tbsp butter, or high quality extra virgin olive oil (optional) 1/4 cup freshly grated Reggiano parmesan, plus extra for garnishing Salt and pepper The stock needs to be in a separate pot on the stove at a strong simmer (A note on canned stocks, they can be awfully salty and can even impart a metallic taste to your dish. We usually cut it one to one with water). You'll need a ladle to add the stock with and a strong spoon to stir the risotto with. The pot for the risotto needs to be large (5 quart will work well) and as heavy as possible. An enameled Le Crueset pot works very well, as will most heavy stock pots. Sweat the onions in the olive oil over medium high heat until translucent, about 5-8 minutes. Don't let them brown. Add the rice and continue to stir for a couple of minutes. At this point, add the wine and stir the rice. As the liquid is absorbed and the rice stops sticking to the side of the pot, add a cup of the stock. Continue stirring, adding liquid as needed. As the rice gets closer to being done, the liquid will not absorb as quickly, so you will need to decrease the amount you put in each time. After 18-20 minutes, taste the rice for doneness. It should be al dente but not crunchy and not mushy. If it's not done, cook it a couple of minutes longer and test it again. If it's mushy, better luck next time. At the point it reaches al dente, stir in the butter (optional) and parmesan, and adjust the seasoning. You won't need very much pepper, if any. The rice should be smooth and creamy without being soupy or clumpy. Serve it up and top it with the reserved cheese. Okay, now that we have the basic recipe down, here are some variations on the above recipe that we happen to like. Up Saffron and Morel risotto - Although the wives aren't as enamoured with this one (morel phobic), we think this is one of the best damned risotto dishes we've ever had. It's very rich. Serves four as a first course. To the basic recipe at: 1 big pinch of saffron 1/2-1 oz of dried morels 2 tbsp. fresh chopped Italian parsley, with extra for garnish Soak the morels in 1 cup of hot water until soft (~ 20 minutes). Squeeze the morels dry and cut in half lengthwise. Run them very well under running water. Strain the soaking liquid through a double layer of cheesecloth and a strainer, or through a coffee filter and set aside. Add the morels when you add the rice. The reserved mushroom soaking water will be the first liquid you add, after the wine. At the same time, add the saffron. Continue to cook as per the recipe. When you add the cheese, also stir in the parsley. Serve and top with a little more parsley and cheese. If you've got some old red wines that have some mushroomy earthiness to them, this is the dish you want. We've had it with old bordeaux (St. Emilion to be exact) and found it to be a flawless match. An old cabernet or Meritage such as Joseph Phelps Insignia will also work well. We plan on giving it a spin with an old Rioja too. Up Grilled Chicken and Asparagus Risotto - This one is Kris' favorite (JD's wife). It serves four as a light, one dish main course. To the basic recipe add: 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts 1 lb of asparagus, washed, trimmed and cut into bite sized pieces Season the chicken with whatever you like. I happen to favor seasoning salt, pepper, granulated garlic and herbs d' provence. Grill over hot coals while you start the risotto. You may step away from the risotto pot to turn the chicken, remove it, whatever. Just don't stay away too long. When it's done, let it rest for a couple of minutes. You then have one of two choices, slice the chicken and add it to the risotto a few minutes before it's done, or you can slice it an arrange it over the risotto before you serve it. Your choice, they both turn out well. The asparagus you will add about 15 minutes into the cooking process. It should be al dente when the rice is. This is a lighter style of risotto that we eat often in the spring, when the local asparagus is in season. For vegetarians, use veggie stock and omit the chicken. For another variation, add 1/2 ounce of morels that have been soaked, halved and cleaned when you add the rice. Two good wines that go well with this dish are California Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. Up

Ultimate Kasha Varnishkes This ain't your bubbe's kasha- this is kasha as a world-class dish. SY's yiddishe parents tried it and pronounced it the best kasha they'd ever had.
1 oz dried porcini mushrooms (you can substitute dried Polish mushrooms) 1 cup hot water olive oil 1 red onion, diced 1 carrot, diced 1/4 cup dry white wine 1-1/4 cup roasted vegetable stock salt and pepper 1 bay leaf pinch dried sage or 3-4 fresh sage leaves chiffonaded 1 cup kasha, uncooked, whole granules 1 egg 4 oz pot pie bow pasta, uncooked 2 quarts water Italian parsley, chopped Soak the dried mushrooms in the hot water for about 20-30 minutes or until reconstituted. Pour off about 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid into a cup or bowl, being careful to leave the grit behind. Remove the mushrooms, squeeze, then chop finely. Heat about 1 or 2 tbs of olive oil in a saucepan over a medium-high flame. Add the onion and carrot, then saute until they are softened and just barely beginning to brown. Then add the chopped porcini. Saute for another two minutes, stirring frequently. Deglaze with the white wine, then add the stock and the reserved mushroom soaking liquid. Bring to a simmer, then salt and pepper to taste. In another bowl, lightly beat the egg, then add the kasha, stirring until the egg and kasha are thoroughly mixed. Heat a saute pan over medium-high flame, add 2 tbs of olive oil, then the egg-kasha mixture. Using a spatula, vigorously turn and chop the kasha until the egg has coated all the grains and they are separate and dry- you should get a definite toasted buckwheat aroma! Add the simmering stock, the bay leaf, and the sage, reduce the heat, and simmer covered for 10-15 minutes or until the liquid has been absorbed. While the kasha is simmering away, cook the bow tie pasta in at least 2 quarts of salted water until it's al dente. Drain, then add to the cooked kasha. Mix thoroughly, cook for another minute or so, adjust seasoning, then serve. Garnish over the top of each portion with chopped parsley. This dish is dyno-mite with a rich Alsace pinot gris or an earthy Loire cabernet franc- look for wines with pronounced earthy flavors. I haven't tried it with a Vouvray moelleux, but I bet that would work. Up

Spiced Rice A great change of pace from plain old steamed rice. Recipe services six-eight as a side dish.
2 cups - long grained white rice 1 - medium sized yellow onion, peeled and diced small 3 ¾ cup - chicken stock, veggie stock (for the vegetarians) or water (ugghh) 6 - dried bay leaves (if you use domestic "Bay Laurel" leaves, cut that to one. Very potent) 2 - tsp Cardamom seeds 1 - tsp Coriander seeds 1 - tsp coarsely ground black pepper ¼ cup - good olive oil In an ovenproof saute pan (cast iron actually works quite well), sweat the onions in the olive oil until translucent. Don't let them brown. Add the spices and saute for another 30 seconds. Add the rice, mix well with the oil and spices and saute for another minute or so. Add the stock, adjust the salt if needed and bring to a boil. Place in a preheated 400 degree oven for 18-20 minutes. Remove from the oven, remove the Bay leaves, fluff with a fork and serve. Up
Oven Roasted Yukon Gold Potatoes Extremely versatile dish. Yukon Golds are definitely The Stupids favorite potato. Recipe serves 4-6 as a side dish.
1 ½lb - Yukon Gold potatoes, the smaller the better Olive oil 2 tsp each - Salt and pepper 2 tsp - Granulated garlic 2 tsp - Dried herbs of choice Feel free to adjust the quantities to your liking Wash and dry the potatoes. If they're really small, cut them in half. If not, cut them in quarters. Put into a bowl, add the other ingredients and enough olive oil to coat. Toss the potatoes until evenly coated with all the ingredients. Place on a baking sheet and stick into a preheated, 375 degree oven. They should take about 45 minutes to cook. Serve 'em up. Up
Gratin of Celery Root and Yukon Gold Potatoes We adapted this recipe from David Rosengarten's "Dean & DeLuca Cookbook". Rosengarten is the Eric Clapton of the kitchen. His wine reviews are pretty damned good, too. Our version of this dish is a bit richer than the original, as if that were needed. The Raclette gives this a neat funky quality that matches better with wine.
2 lbs celery root, peeled and cubed 2 lbs Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cubed 1 c cream 1/2 c butter 1 tsp saffron 2 cloves garlic, minced 1-1/2 c Gruyere, grated 1 c Raclette, grated Salt and pepper 1/2 c Italian parsley, chopped Boil the celery root and potatoes separately in salted water until each is soft. Strain and set aside. Heat the cream until it boils, then stir in the butter, saffron, and garlic. Reduce the heat, then simmer for 5 minutes until the saffron is extracted and the mixture slightly thickened. Set aside. Puree the celery root (Rosengarten suggests a food processor; I prefer a hand-held Braun puree thingamabob), while gradually adding the cream sauce. Mash the potatoes coarsely, or use a ricer if you want a smoother texture. Combine the potato, celery root, and one cup of the Gruyere; season to taste with salt and pepper. Spread the mixture in a greased oven-proof dish, top with the remaining cheese and the parsley, then bake in a preheated 400 degree oven until the top is browned. Our favorite wine match is a non-oaked sauvignon blanc like a good sancerre, though a gruner veltliner would also be terrific. Acidity and a herbal/vegetal character is a plus. Up

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