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Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and blends

'85 Groth Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa): Big wine, big texture, big sink-scrapings nose, big coarse tannins. Imagine V-8 spiked with plum juice. SY (8/01)

'91 Araujo "Eisele" Cabernet: Rumors of ill health do not appear to be exaggerated. Poured into Riedel Vinums, the wine showed a distinct "dusty" quality on the nose without a whole lot else. It did open over the evening to give off a little herby, dried fruit thing but it never achieved the opulence you would expect from a wine of this pedigree. In the mouth, the dried out theme continued. The fruit was mature but dried out on the short finish. Again, it became more forthcoming over the evening but was disappointing in the end. An argument could be made that the wine is still closed but I think the maturity of the fruit belies that. I guess we will see in a few years if the patient is indeed terminal. JD (6/01)

'90 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma): Opening scents of green tobacco and toast make way for some very characteristic Sonoma fruit. Well-controlled and medium bodied, just getting to maturity, it's a relief from the over-ripe stuff normally emanating from this area. Tannins are still abundant but not intrusive. Superb match for a potato and onion pizza. I'll drink my other bottles soon. SY (10/00)

'79 Niebaum-Coppolla Rubicon (Napa): Remarkably youthful, but it's mandatory to air it out for a couple of hours to get its best. Well-muscled, still coarsely tannic (as it apparently always will be), lots of Rutherford dust aromas, and deep plummy fuitiness. A lot of palate impact, great wine near its peak. SY (5/01)

'93 Saddleback Reserve (Napa): Very toasty-oaky and starting to oxidize. The tannins are still there in full force, though. For chocoalte and vanilla fans. SY (4/01)

'96 Greenwood Ridge Merlot ($20): Cherry/plum nose with a dash of oak. Decent fruit on the palate, the wine thins on the finish. JD (6/99)

'96 Duncan Peak cabernet (Medocino)($29): Some cherry/berry fruit with moderate tannins. Very simple wine. $29? JD (6/99)

'92 Oakville Bench Cellars cabernet ($14): I'm not sure but I think this wine may have done some physical damage. JD (6/99)

'97 Benziger Cabernet ($16): Fruity nose with a slight herbaceous edge. Soft fruit on the palate in a chocolate and oak frame, that isn't overdone. A nonthreatening wine that you can quaff or serve to inlaws. JD (8/99)

'96 Paradigm Cabernet ($40): No discernable nose. Soft and simple fruit. I preferred the Benziger. JD (8/99)

'95 Caymus "Special Selection" ($120): Inky color. The nose is pretty tight but there is big fruit and chocolate on the palate. The massive toasted new oak that has so marred previous vintages is there but is in much better balance with the fruit. This is a big ass wine that needs a few years to show its best. I still can't understand the price though. JD (4/99)

'96 Mt. Veeder Cabernet: No nose. Some fruit and coffee on the palate with big tannins. What fruit there is thins on the finish. Whether or not the fruit can tame the tannins somewhere down the road is questionable. JD (4/99)

'96 Pezzi King Cabernet ($20): A little green. Good fruit with plenty of tannins. The finish is a little short. Even with these shortcomings, it seems to have some potential. Give it a few years and it should be a pretty nice wine. JD (4/99)

'95 Dunn "Howell Mountain" Cabernet ($46): Opaque color, poopy nose. Very tight, subdued fruit on the palate. Massive tannins. Another wine from Dunn that requires at least 15-20 years to see if it's any good. On the plus side, the price has remained reasonable (relatively speaking). JD (4/99)  

'96 Von Strasser Cabernet ($39): Classic cassis and herb nose. The palate shows concentrated sweet fruit and full tannins. It may turn out well but it's very tight right now and needs years to resolve. Could be worth sticking a bottle or two away to see how it turns out. JD (3/99)

'96 Flora Springs "Trilogy" ($34): There have been some decent "Trilogy's" in the past but this isn't one of them. Sweet, candy fruit on the nose and the palate. Big tannins and a short finish. Skip it. JD (3/99)

'97 La Crosse Cabernet ($10): From one of the Napa Valley's perennial underachievers, Beaucannon, this one doesn't help. Sweet black cherries on the nose but the palate is thin and uninteresting. JD (3/99)

'95 Wynn's "Coonawarra" Cabernet -Australia ($11): Decent fruit nose with a waxy edge. The palate is austere but there is some depth to the fruit. Short finish. An adequate bbq wine that may benefit from a year or so in the bottle. JD (3/99)

'96 St. Francis Merlot (Sonoma): Dark garnet color- not even a hint of purple, all of which are reflected in a slightly oxidative nose. Coconut, chocolate, and dill (sure signs of American oak) lead the aroma pack, with some plums and olives bringing up the rear. The usual soft merlot texture yields to a sharp spike of tannin on the finish. I suppose this is a decent domestic merlot, but it doesn't ring my chimes. I hate to encourage this sort of thing, but it might go well with pizza. SY (3/99)

'95 Cafaro Merlot: Black fruit on the nose with some cedar and toasted oak. Good dark fruit and oak on the palate. The middle has a medium sized black hole in it though, sucking in the flavors around it. Moderate tannins and a medium length finish. JD (2/99)

'97 Echelon Merlot ($12): From Chalone, this is a wine Merlot lovers should seek out. Plummy nose that's just a bit stemmy. Sweet fruit with some toasty oak. Not complex by any stretch of the imagination but it does deliver more fruit than most Merlots in this price range. JD (2/99)

'95 Hess "Select" Merlot ($13): Light fruit on the nose and on the palate. Tannic and not much going for it. Skip it and go for the Echelon instead. JD (2/99)

'95 Monticello "Corley Reserve" Merlot ($35): 82% Merlot and 13% Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose is pretty reticent. Full body with a huge structure. Big fruit and big tannins. This is a serious Merlot that needs at least five years to integrate and mellow. Or, pop it next to a well marbled steak tonight. JD (2/99)

'96 Frogs Leap Cabernet Sauvignon $24): Wow. Plenty of cassis and cedar on the nose in a frame of oak that refrains from being gaudy. Big, rich fruit on the palate with full, somewhat coarse tannins. This wine isn't going to win awards for complexity or elegance but it sure is a damned nice bottle of cab that should easily last 8-10 years while still drinking well tonight. JD (2/99)

'95 Terraces Cabernet Sauvignon ($50): Cedar nose, some cassis. Decent fruit on the palate with plenty of toasted new oak. Full tannins that warrant years of ageing. For the price, I'll take the Frogs Leap. JD (2/99)

'94 Monticello "Corley Reserve" Cabernet Sauvignon ($50): I'll admit, I haven't paid much attention to Monticello for some years. This one made me sit up and take notice. Classic cab nose full of cassis, cedar, herbs and oak. Full red fruits on the palate. The structure is well balance and big while still allowing the wine to come across as elegant. I'll be tasting this one again but based on this experience, it is well worth adding a couple of bottles to the collection. Give it at least 10 years in the cellar. JD (2/99)

'96 Sierra Vista Cabernet Sauvignon ($16): Plums, cassis with a dose of toasty new oak. Plenty of sweet fruit with a touch of herbs and toasted oak on the palate. Big tannins warrant a few years in the cellar. Not being major fans of foothill cabernet, this one adds points to the "plus" column. Decent juice at a decent price. (11/98)

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