Champagne and Sparkling
Wine
We're not big
champagne nuts but a glass at the beginning
of a festive evening is always appreciated.
 NV
Piper-Heidsick Brut ($20): Yeasty, toasty nose with good
fruit on the palate. There seems to be a little residual
sugar on the finish. Not bad but I prefer the Paul Roger or
Charles Heidsick when it comes to nonvintage bubbly in this
price range. JD (6/99)
Charles
Heidsick Mise en Cave "Reserve Cuvee'" ('90, '92, '93,
'95): A new gimmick, Heidsick has decided to release NV
champagne that has a bottling year on it.
The
'90 has a round, yeasty nose that is showing it's
age. Good fruit on the palate with a hint of yeast and
toast. Fine mousse. Very nice bubbly. ($59)
The '92 is
quite different. It comes across with a light nose, a
light palate and a slight metallic edge. Ehhh.
($41)
'93 is yet
another animal. Delicate with a fine mousse and good
acidity. Some yeast dough on the nose and palate to back
up the light fruit. ($39)
'95 shows
good promise for ageability. This is a young,
in-your-face style of champagne with bright fruit and
good acid. ($36)
Of the four, I
prefer the '90 followed by the '95. JD (6/99)
'90
Heidsick Brut ($50): Yeasty, doughy, citrus aromas.
Toasty palate with plenty of fruit. Fine mousse and good
acid. Well worth the price. I definitely plan on picking up
a few for the new millennium. JD (5/99)
Henriot
"Souverain" Brut ($24): Here's something special. Not a
lot on the nose but there is plenty of citrus fruit on the
palate with good acid and tiny bubbles. Fairly rich on the
finish. Very good bubblyfor the price. JD (5/99)
Deutz
NV ($30): Intense citrus and green apple nose. Decent
palate with some dustiness around the fruit. Short finish.
Okay but only decent QPR. JD (4/99)
Roederer
"Brut Premier" NV ($23): Apples, lemons and yeast on the
nose. Good fruit on the palate but somewhat simple. A good,
consistently drinkable sparkler. JD (4/99)
'93
Roederer: Young, yeasty intense nose. Good fruit and
bracing acidity but there is a whole in the midpalate. Long,
tart finish, teeny bubbles. Give it a couple of years. JD
(4/99)
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