Chardonnay/White
Burgundy
 '99
Rochioli "Allen Vineyard" Chardonnay: A very small production wine
from Rochioli. Typically, the toasted oak level is way too high on Rochioli's
single vineyard chardonnays and this one is no exception. Although there
is obviously a ton of great citrusy fruit underlying, the full malo
butteriness, along with the 100% toasted new oak takes over immediately
after you notice how great the fruit is. Although there are many people
who love this style, I would like the fruit to play a more predominant
role. JD (6/01)
'93
Niellon Bâtard-Montrachet: Another indication of the high
quality of the '93 whites. It's just starting to get some maturity with
a balance between fatness and sinew, lush fruitiness and a smoky aged
complexity. Stellar. SY (1/01)
'99
Sierra Vista (Sierra Foothills): Totally unoaked. Green apples and
stones, taut acidity, a sketch of a Chablis. Cheap and food-friendly.
If you like 'em ripe, look elsewhere. SY (12/00)
'00
Sierra Vista (El Dorado): Totally unoaked. Quite a bit richer and
weightier than the '99, less of a steely-green apple, more of riper
apples, pineapple, and kiwi. The intensity of the fruit (probably enhanced
by a cold fermentation) gives a sweet impression in the mouth. The '00
is much more of what you'd expect from a California chard than the '99
was, for better or for worse. Still cheap, still tasty, still food-friendly.
SY (5/01)
'95
Oakville Bench Cellars ($12):
Waxy, dust nose. Sour fruit on the palate surrounded by buttery, vanilla
oak flavors. JD (6/99)
'96
Cevaro ($27): Heavy toast on the nose. Minimal fruit with plenty
of butter to make up for it. Pass. JD (6/99)
'96
Beringer "Private Reserve" ($33): Funky nose, brett maybe? Decent
fruit palate, came across older than it is. Plenty of butter and oak.
JD (6/99)
'97
Clos du Bois Chardonnay "Calcaire": Don't believe the
back label, this is NOT at all an oaky wine. Pineapple, pine
needles, and minerals (!) lead the pack. There might be a
touch of residual sugar, but just enough to fatten it and
not enough to come across as sweet. One of my three or four
favorite Cal chards. SY (5/99)
'97
Ferret Pouilly-Fuisse "Les Sceles": My first experience
with this bottling. Definitely oakier than the CdB, quite
fat and diffuse, almost Californian. It's very good, but not
what I had hoped. SY (5/99)
'95
Moreau "Vaillons" Chablis: Stony pineapple, a hint of
flower and flint; that's the perfume. Fine intensity and
good acidity, with a somewhat loose-knit structure and
plenty of fruitiness. Nice, long finish with an apply sort
of tinge. Not the very best Chablis has to offer, but
delicious on its own terms, a good deal at $22, and an
object lesson to California winemakers about how to make a
good, inexpensive, unoaked chardonnay. SY (8/99)
'97
Herzog Chardonnay: I tend to like most Herzog wines; they're clean,
well-delineated if not terribly complex, and have good balance. This
oak-bomb is the exception. SY (8/99)
'96
Regnard "Grand Regnard" Chablis ($21): This is a blend
of AC and Premier Cru wines. Light citrus nose. Penetrating
fruit on the palate with a dose of minerals. The fruit
expands on the finish with plenty of acid to keep it crisp.
Intense stuff and a great value. The ball shaped bottle is a
drawback for storage though. JD (4/99)
'97
Albert Pic "Vaillons" Chablis ($25): Not much in the way
of a nose at this point. Tight and tart on the palate with
lemon and a touch of lanolin. Spine shivering acidity. This
easily needs a couple of years. Those of you that like
austere Chablis should give it a try. JD (4/99)
'96
Le Bon Heur (South Africa) ($15): Ripe, round fruit on the nose
a palate with some definite weirdness that I can't put my finger on.
Toasted oak is noticeable around the edges. Okay wine for the price.
JD (4/99)
'96
Macrostie "Reserve Chardonnay" Carneros: Sharp, somewhat
painful. Lots of toasted oak. JD (4/99)
'97
Landmark "Overlook" ($17): The Spectator drooled over this stuff.
I'll give them this much, it's not bad. Light toast and fruit on the
nose. The fruit on the palate is forward with only a light oak frame.
A little creamy and heavy, a la Helen Turley, but it's not too bad.
Worth giving a try. JD (4/99)
'95
Heartswood "Private Reserve" Monterey ($6): No
nose, sugary fruit. Yuck. JD (3/99)
'95
Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet ($50): A little
sulfury on the nose but it blows off quickly. Unfortunately,
there isn't a whole lot to take its place. A bit of
honeysuckle and light fruit but that's about it. Tight fruit
on the palate with good acidity but there's not a lot of
complexity or concentration. Yeah, it's a young Chassagne
and may come around in time but I doubt it. Disappointing,
especially given the price. JD (3/99)
'97
Shafer "Red Shoulder" ($30): Clean, "piney" fruit
with a dash of oak. The palate is fruit driven but the
heavily toasted oak frame clashes with it at this point. The
texture is creamy but not overdone. I've not been a big fan
of this bottling in past vintages but I would say that this
is the best of the three ('95-'97) that I've had. If you're
a fan of California Chardonnay and are willing to part with
$30 for a bottle, search this one out. JD (3/99)
'96
Morgan "Monterey" ($22): The nose isn't very
forthcoming at this point. It does have rich fruit on the
palate with a waxy edge and texture to it. Decent acidity
and an oak frame that allows the fruit to show its stuff.
Not bad at all. JD (3/99)
'95
Rene Manuel Mersault "Clos des Bouches Cheres" ($25):
Lemon and toasted oak aromas and flavors. It's got
a little stink that can be expected in a young Mersault.
Tart acidity. Disjointed now, it has the stuffing to age for
years. Definitely worth looking for. At this price, I added
a few bottles to the cellar. JD (2/99)
'97
Arrowood "Sonoma County" ($22): Light lemon,
toasted oak aromas and flavors. Less oak than the Reserve
(which has enough wood in it to make a "tree hugger"
cringe). Uninteresting at best, a waste of $22 at worst. JD
(2/99)
'96
Gloria Ferrer "Carneros" Chardonnay ($14): Good
fruit on the nose with the oak not overdone. Unfortunately,
the integrated oak on the nose is just there to lull you
into a false sense of security. The toast on the palate
takes over and doesn't let go for some time. Skip it.
JD (2/99)
'97
Frogs Leap Chardonnay ($18): Nondescript,
nonthreatening textbook chardonnay. Your box wine friends
will think you opened up something special. JD
(2/99)
Sierra
Vista NV Black Oak Chardonnay ($7.50): A second label wine,
made by blending purchased bulk, this is an inexpensive quaffer. Plenty
of toasted oak on the nose. Less predominant on the palate, the oak
is still present. The fruit does, however, show through. If you're looking
for an inexpensive Chardonnay, and like the oaky style, it's pretty
competitive. JD (11/99)
Sierra
Vista '97 Chardonnay ($16): Barrel fermented, this is a good
wine in a buttery, oaky style. Good fruit and very well made but the
not quite what the Stupids look for in a Chardonnay. If this style is
to your liking, definitely search this out and give it a try. You sure
can't beat the price. JD (11/99)
'92
Niellon Batard-Montrachet: The Niellon is full of
fat fruit with enough acidity to keep it going. Very
California in style but missing was the slab of vanilla and
butter that plagues so many CA chards these days. In
addition, very few could maintain this level of quality at
six years of age. Excellent juice. JD
(12/99)
'91
Dom. Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: The Leflaive
was more of what I look for in a white burg. Plenty of rich,
ripe fruit with added floral complexity and a touch of
honey. On the palate, there was some waxy thickness that I
associate with great burgs. A superb bottle of wine that is
mature and ready to relish. Stuart disagrees, preferring the
Niellon. Then again, he brought it. JD
(12/99)
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