Pinot Noir -
Imported
(yum!
We like burgundy)
 '95
Pavelot Savigny-les-Beaune "Narbontons." If Burgundy is a minefield,
then Savigny is a Red Cross station, chock full of well-made, well-priced
pinot. No exception here, the Narbontons is medium-light bodied, intensely
spicy, wonderfully red-fruit stony. SY (1/00)
'90
Ponsot Clos de la Roche "Vieilles Vignes": Wow. Just massive
spicy black fruit compote, plenty of earth, astounding length and texture.
I'm not a big fan of the 1990 Burgundy vintage in general, but this
is one of the few '90s that could pull off finesse, complexity, and
balance to go with the weight. Triple Curly, and more time will clearly
elicit a "woo-woo-woo." SY (5/00)
'96
Bichot "Lu Clos du Pavillon" (Pommard)($31): "Yes, I would love
to have some fruit in my wine. What? I can't have any?" JD (8/99)
'96
Bichot (Gevrey-Chambertin) ($31): Luv them mercaptans! A nice dose
of athlete's foot is noticeable under the sulfur. Guess they should
have used "tough actin' Tinactin." JD (8/99)
'93
F. Esmonin Ruchottes-Chambertin: It's finally starting
to shed a little of its forward juicy-fruity quality and
starting to taste more like a Burgundy. Boysenberry fruit
with hints of fresh-cut beets, nuances of leather, no sign
of new oak. Very taut and racy. Dee-lish. SY
(6/99)
'88
Meo-Camuzet Nuits-St-George "Aux Murgers": Black fruits
and decaying leaves, a slash of game. Tannins have finally
resolved and the oak has receded into the fruit, just giving
it an allspice tinge. This is ready, willing, and snapping
to attention. Great wine. I'll drink the rest quite soon. SY
(6/99)
'96
Louis Latour "Beaune Villages" ($14): Cherry-candy
nose. A little stemmy. Decent fruit on the palate but a
little acidic and austere. Decent finish. JD
(2/99)
'96
Rene Engel Vosne Romanee ($42): Good color. The
nose has decent cherry fruit but is pretty one -
dimensional. Unfortunately, the palate follows. For $42, the
only other Pinot that has disappointed me more is the '96
Rochioli "Little Hill Block." (actually, the Pousse d'Or
fits in this category too) JD (2/99)
'93
La Pousse d'Or Volnay "Clos de la Bousse d'Or" ($57):
Okay, I know that Volnays are supposed to be "light
and elegant" with a marvelous perfumey nose. Do you think it
would be too much to ask for a little flavor to go along
with that perfumey elegance? JD (2/99)
'93
Rene LeClerc Gevrey-Chambertin "Lavaux St.
Jacques":
Plenty of cherry
aromas and flavors, bordered by Asian spices that are
prevalent in a good bottle of burgundy. Yes, CA Pinot can
have the same type of spices but there's something different
about burgundy. The acid is noticeable and there are some
mild tannins. Give it a few of more years to show its best.
JD (12/99)
'90
Doreau Monthelie: The Doreau would be a great wine
to show California winemakers what an under $20 Pinot should
taste like. Plenty of bright cherry flavors with a hint of
spice. Great balance with the type of acidity that makes it
a perfect match with food. Buy it by the case and suck it
up. JD (12/99)
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