Rhône/Loire
blanc - imported
Mmmm,
Dageaneau, Chave, yummm!
 '99
Monteillet St-Joseph "La Cabriole": A wonderful depth
and intensity, with an unobtrusive oakiness, fierce minerality, and
fine delineation. You'd swear it was a great young Hermitage. It will
be interesting to see if it fits the same aging pattern- the structure
sure seems to be there. SY (9/01)
'93
Gaillard Condrieu: Still alive and kicking, maybe even a bit better
than it was in youth. The flowery viognier nose is still there, but
it's been joined by honey and stones. One of the very few Condrieus
I've had that's aged well- maybe that's due to the acidic, almost underripe
nature of the '93 harvest. SY (7/01)
'83
J-L Chave Hermitage: Wow. Rich and taut, honeyed stones. Great finish.
Ready to go. SY (2/01)
'82
J-L Chave Hermitage: A little fatter and looser
than the '83. Similar level of maturity, but sluttier. SY (2/01)
'89
Beaucastel Blanc VV: This 100% roussanne is closed for business,
but a peek into the shop window suggests the treasures that lie within.
I think they reopen in about 4-5 years. I'll be waiting. SY (10/98)
'99
Monteillet St-Joseph blanc: Oily, minerally, great balance and elegance.
SY (2/01)
'99
Monteillet St-Joseph blanc "La Cabriole": Bigger, richer,
and oakier than the normal cuvee. Dead-ringer for a fine white Hermitage.
SY (2/01)
'85
Desmeure Hermitage Blanc: The door opens, and the aromas
wafting out are classic marsanne. Behind the oily,
lanolin-and-hazelnut exterior lies a texture of heavy
velvet. Mouthcoating and deep. Makes me wish I had more
Hermie Blanc in the cellar. SY (10/98)
'98
Beaurenard Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc: It's basically a
clairette with some grenache blanc. These are both rather
fat, heavy varieties, and not surprisingly the blend is
fairly ponderous. Aromatically, I'm reminded of spring
flowers, chestnuts, and lanolin (in sort of a Meursault
sense). Although there's some satisfying fruitiness in the
flavor, I don't get any real depth or complexity.
Nonetheless, the Beau-blanc is perfectly nice, priced well
($20-22), and definitely will give texture freaks the
mouthful that they seek. SY (5/99)
'97
Dagueneau "Pur Sang" Pouilly Fume' ($40): Perfumey, stony,
melon and citrus nose. The oak is appropriately gagged and stuffed in
a box of fruit, where it belongs. The fruit is backed up by a hint of
herbs. This is heady, serious stuff that just keeps growing in the glass.
It's drinkable now, with air but a couple of years in the bottle can
do nothing but good. JD (3/99)
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