Bordeaux
 '95
Cos' de Estournel (St. Estephe):
Coffee and tobacco on the nose. The palate follows with muted fruit.
A tight, full bodied wine with big tannins. Give it many years in the
cellar. JD (7/99)
'81
Pichon Lalande (Pauillac): Well
filled-out for the vintage, matured to a beautiful cedar-olive patina.
Fine, stylish, and elegant bordeaux. SY (8/01)
'96
Les Tourelles de Longueville (Pauillac) ($25): Stemmy
nose, stemmy palate, some herbs and tobacco. The fruit must
still be in France. JD (7/99)
'96
Beaumont (Haut-Medoc) ($13): Sixth time I've tasted this
and they've all been tainted with TCA. JD (8/99)
'90
Leoville-Las-Cases (St-Julien): The Other Stupid is on a campaign
to reawaken my interest in Bordeaux. This is bringing in the heavy ammo.
It's tough to describe it, since it started out beautifully open, then
shut tighter than Orrin Hatch's nether opening. But withall, the deep,
rich texture was spiced with a Pauillac-y cedar and graphite perfume,
the balance belied the weight, and the deep cassis flavor did a Mexican
Hat Dance around the inside of my mouth. OK, I'll grudgingly admit that
skinny bottles aren't all bad. SY (5/99)
'94
Leoville-Barton (St. Julien) ($30): Light fruit and
tobacco nose that's a little musty around the edges. The
medium bodied fruit on the palate is quickly buried by the
tannins. Pass. JD (4/99)
'96
Clos Rene (Pomerol): Closed nose, light fruit. There's
some smoky cherries and plums on the palate but there's a
bite around the edge. Big tannins. The '95 was much better
and several dollars cheaper. JD (4/99)
'61
Beychevelle (St. Julien): Only old bordeaux can produce
a nose like this. The melange of aromas is too complex to
describe. Unfortunately, the palate is gone. JD
(4/99)
'96
La Lagune ($31): Stemmy nose with a little coffee and
tobacco. The fruit on the palate fades quickly. I've yet to
taste a '96 Bordeaux that I felt was worth the price. JD
(4/99)
'96
Chasse-Spleen (Moulis) ($24): Closed nose with a
hint of berries and tobacco. The palate is tight and austere
but seems to have some concentrated fruit hiding under the
massive tannins. My preference definitely runs to the more
approachable '95 which was cheaper than the '96 by about
five bucks. If you buy some of this, give it a few years. JD
(3/99)
'83
Gruard Larose: Medium brick, orange rim. Plenty of bottle boquet.
The vanilla oak is still present with some herbaceous eaucalyptus playing
in the background. Big wine, moderate tannins still hanging around.
Mature fruit, tobacco, herbs, earthy and noticeably poopy. Stuart's
favorite of the night because it reminds him of Beaucastel. Elegant
drinking with a good finish. JD (2/99)
'83
Ducru' Beaucaillou: Medium garnet color. Dusty nose ( I mean
eye watering dusty) with bottle bouquet and some plums. Big, tight and
tannic. Austere palate, earthy, medium length finish. This big boy doesn't
want to come out and play yet. Give it another five years at least.
JD (2/99)
'86
Leoville Barton: Ruby color. Closed nose with a slight roasted
quality. Big with full tannins. Some good red fruit on the palate but
a dry finish. Easily needs another 5-10 years. Will never be unct....(damn,
I almost used that word). JD (2/99)
'86
Brainaire Ducru: Medium ruby color. Cedar, fruit and some coffee
aromas. Big bad tannins. Mature fruit, a little poop and a weird "lanolin"
note in the background. Short finish. Give it a few years. JD (2/99)
'85
Leoville Barton: Ruby color. Dusty nose with a green edge and
a little pencil lead. Medium-full body with moderate tannins. Pretty
closed on the palate with some round fruit and herbs. Medium length
finish. JD (2/99)
'83
Talbot: Ruby with a garnet rim. Coffee and herbs on the nose.
This is a big wine. Huge fruit on the palate with a nice herbaceous
background. Long finish. Very nice juice. JD (2/99)
'83
Leoville Barton: Ruby color. Menthol, candied fruit and dust
on the nose. Very weird. Tight structure with massive, life sucking
tannins. Austere fruit on the palate with a medium length, tart finish.
Wouldn't turn it down if there was nothing else to drink but the fruit
may eventually sacrifice itself to save the tannins. JD (2/99)
'89
Beychevelle: Ruby color. Coffee and menthol on the nose. A
big wine with full, integrated tannins. Ripe fruit on the palate with
a hint of tobacco. Long, tannic finish. Wow. Will it last 100 years?
Doubt it. It should drink well for the next 10-20 years though. JD (2/99)
Up
|
