From an “off” vintage. The perfume is staggering, intense, and classic. Deep smoke and bacon, with a bit of an herbal streak. The latter was much more prominent when this wine was young, but has subsumed itself to the meatier bits. Medium bodied, not as intense or long as, say, the ’91, but as good as ’92 Cote-Roties get. An hour of air fattened it up a bit. Mature, but showing no signs of fruit-fade. And like all Ogier wines, it’s brett-free, if that’s important to you. I’m reminded of the ’87. My rating: Larry Double-Curly.