The ’89 Jaboulet La Chapelle was an interesting contrast to the Chapoutier. It had a deeper fruit core, less noticeable wood-spice, and a thicker, meatier texture. Of course, the signature Jaboulet sour-milk nose was certainly there. Downside? It doesn’t have the complexity and layering of flavor that I expect in top Hermitage. There’s even less of that characteristic here than we saw in the ’89 Bernard Chave we had a few weeks ago in Ann Arbor, a wine with a much more modest reputation. But if weight and intensity are more your thing than subtlety and elegance, this Chapelle delivers. And it’s also ready to go, though not showing any signs that it’s heading downhill.