Pierre is another of the Old School who I badly miss. His son, Gilles, has produced some good wines, but not at the level of Papa. This beauty was bacon-wrapped raspberries, screamingly high-toned perfume. Texturally, we’re talking ethereal satin. Outstanding length, most elegant indeed. I wish Gary Kahle had had this for his ’85 tasting last week (Hey, Gary, I know who’s got some ”85 Pierre Barge in Ann Arbor…). Perfectly a point, though showing no hint of decay.