1993 Dujac Bonnes Mares

Dujac has always made red Burgundies with a strong signature, yet somehow the terroirs always seem to shine through. It’s a magical kind of thing. The ’93 Dujac Bonnes Mares is no exception. The oak signature was right up front, as was the typical Dujacian velvet texture. But the depth and intensity of dark fruits, Burgundian stone and spice, and an almost meaty tone to the proceedings turned this from a potential Yuck into an exceedingly good Yum. It’s still quite primary, the tannins still bite, but the unfolding of flavors has started. Even our pizza of grape tomatoes, porcini, Asiago, and Provencal olives couldn’t hold it back- in fact, the combination was strikingly good. I’ll let the remaining bottles rest another 7 years or so. BTW, this isn’t as extravagant as it seems- the ’93 Dujacs were available for a song on release. I probably paid about $40-45. God bless idiot critics.

SY (10/00)