I don’t suppose that I need to go over the history of this Michel Ogier bottling. The ’95 is oh-so-very primary at this point, but is typical of the breed in the way it holds its oak; though raised in 100% new high toast barrels, the fruit intensity and density is so high that the wood is subsumed. Thoroughly Ogier-like perfume and elegance, with the deep structure that marks so many ‘95s. Compared to the “normal” ’95 Ogier, the Belle Helene is darker-flavored, more blackfruity, and has a distinct licorice element, along with a thicker, weightier texture- dry extract, not alcohol. The track record (for example, the ’83 Ogier was predominantly Cote-Rozier and raised entirely in new wood) suggests that the licorice will get stronger with time. Superb.