1985 Dervieux-Thaize “Fontgent” Côte-Rôtie

A fine indication of what old Albert could do in a good year. It’s a sleek middle-aged lady, a burning musk incense stick in her hands. Less intensely fruity than most ’85s, the deal here is transparent Côte Brune terroir and a nice balance of flavor from the front all the way through the fine finish. Easily a Curly, but lacks the oomph to get that second Stooge.

SY (8/01)